Bonnie Gull

Summary

“Like being by the sea in the centre of London!” – this “tiny-but-perfectly-formed” Fitzrovian offers a “wide range of carefully sourced, skilfully prepared, seasonal fish”; and “if the dining room’s a bit noisy and crowded, that’s part of the experience” (“you get to know the adjoining table pretty well”), although in the summer months there’s also “outside seating in the quiet street”. Its even smaller Soho ‘shack’ spin-off – with a counter at the front and a few tables to the rear – opened a couple of years ago, and scores similarly highly.