Roganic

Summary

“The closest you can get to L’Enclume without travelling to the lakes” – Simon Rogan delivers “stunning concoctions (your imagination can really run riot)” at his year-old Fitzrovian, which offers either a seven-course or ten-course evening tasting menu (or, at lunchtime, a three-course option). “Although not as glitzy as his stint at Fera at Claridges, the food is just as good”. But “if the cuisine is undoubtedly Michelin-quality, the venue is less so” – the former premises of L’Autre Pied, which remain “rather bland” and “cramped”. Top Tip – “the utterly divine Tunworth cheese (cake) and caviar dessert (which sounds wrong, but which actually works”).