Islington, French Restaurant Guide

“French comfort food in a cosy setting in the heart of Islington” is just the ticket at this long-serving outfit, where “both cuisine and ambience resemble a bistro in France two or three decades ago”. “Wines have a restrained mark-up”, and there’s a “super-value set lunch which is also available on Saturdays”. Top Menu Tip – “boeuf bourguignon is particularly good”.

“Evoking a big Parisian brasserie”, this Wolseley Group venture on Islington Green has had a chequered history. Opened in 2015, when Corbin & King owned the business, they closed it again in 2019 saying “we just couldn’t make it the success we aspired to”. But then, in 2020 – having failed to sell the property – they re-opened and had a second run at making a go of it. With Corbin & King then forced to exit the business in 2022, we are now going around again under the new owners. In June 2023, after our survey had completed, the restaurant re-opened yet again after a complete refit of the vast space and a new menu. Though brighter, the decor is still in the traditional brasserie mould. When it comes to food: out go the retro ‘tarte flambées’ and the chicken schnitzel – in comes the focaccia and – according to the PR – an ‘evolving seasonal menu… taking inspiration from the southern Mediterranean coastal regions’. Er, except it also includes very un-Mediterranean dishes like Dressed Dorset Crab, Loch Duart Salmon with jersey royals and a watercress velouté and Flat Iron Steak Frites. The weekend brunch – with its pancakes and Eggs Benedict – also owes little to Spain, Italy and Greece. Other novelties are a new cocktail bar, and a DJ booth (the latter of which really risks ‘Dad dancing’ for this kind of venue). Our pre-revamp feedback suggested the same rather ‘OK but not particularly distinguished’ performance of old. But we’ve left it unrated on the basis of the latest changes, as this sounds like a case of ‘outlook negative’.

It’s “not haute cuisine”, but you’ll find “reasonably well-cooked bistro fare that’s very well-priced for the location” at this old-school haunt that has done sterling service for almost 40 years on the Islington main drag, opposite the Almeida Theatre. “The two-tier Parisian theatre boxes are a bit of a mad addition to the interior design”, but they make “a great spot for a family meal before a show”.

“Calves’ liver, perfect coq-au-vin, deeply flavourful venison stew” – this Gallic venue in Islington doesn’t aim for foodie fireworks, but fans like its traditional approach, “warm” atmosphere and “willing” service. The less rosy view is that the cooking is “rather standard French food, if good enough for an evening with friends”. Top Tip – the interior is split level in some areas and regulars say “the top section especially feels romantic”.

“So romantic!”: “down a hidden waterway alley” near Angel, this debut venture from brothers Lorcan and Fin Spiteri – sons of John Spiteri (Quo Vadis, Sessions Arts Club) and Melanie Arnold (Rochelle Canteen) – is by all accounts “a little oasis of beauty”. “Start the night with a cocktail on the jetty, then head down the stairs into a lovely converted barge with low-level lighting”, where “very impressive Italian-leaning food is achieved in a tiny kitchen”.