Andover, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Reopened by Lucy Townsend a decade back – a “lovely old pub” (with ten rooms) delivering “wonderful, delicious seasonal food” that makes the most of the Kent larder, and where the “superb staff and welcome make every meal special” (it’s hotly in demand for romantic getaways). Top Tip – the “particularly good-value set lunch” (three courses £26.95 per person).

Victorian village pub, remodelled and extended in 2018 with new bedrooms and a dining room which provides a standard pub menu. The menu aims at the higher end for pub grub (for example with ‘Hampshire 36 Day Aged Côte de Boeuf’ or ‘King Scallop, Salt Pig Nduja & Saffron Risotto’) but more sceptical reporters see it as “good all-round but somewhat dialled in”.

This “great hotel” makes a “lovely setting” for “consistently very good meals” from well-travelled chef Phil Yeomans, who trained at the Dorchester and worked in the US and Bermuda before returning to his native Hampshire to run the kitchen here six years ago.

2021 Review: “The garden’s a joy in summer” at the original HdV, founded 25 years ago in a gorgeous Georgian house – but there’s a persistent feeling that it fails to live up to its attractive setting or extensive cellar, with diners too often “disappointed” by their bistro fare. The chain, which now numbers 19 boutique hotels, has been sold twice in the last 10 years.

Another outpost of the all-conquering Ivy brand’s high street brasserie spin-off, whose “décor and furnishings stand out from the crowd” (down to the onyx bar, polished parquet floors and burnt-orange leather banquettes). It’s “lost a bit of gloss since it opened” and food was never really the main event (though there’s a “wide choice” on the menu, and it’s generally well-rated) “but it‘s the location and the buzz that you go for”.

“An interesting pub with loads of character” – this well-known sprawling inn (run by Fuller’s) sits right between the Cathedral and the town’s famous public school, and its decor includes bric-a-brac and ancient desks from the latter. “A varied clientele, with some eccentrics – human and canine – are thrown in for added pleasure in a series of cosy and pleasantly cluttered rooms so that except at the busiest times, it‘s convivial rather than noisy; no music or TV; and staff who are amiable and helpful”. Now under a former Roux Scholarship semi-finalist, Luke Emmess, the food “has regained some (not all) of its former glory” and “is certainly a lot better than a mere ‘cut off the joint’”. Straightforward items gain most praise (“dinner doesn‘t always deliver on its ambitions”): “one of the best pies ever…”; “breakfasts and lunchtime sandwiches are superb”.

“Our go-to local favourite” – “history is definitely on the menu here and one can feel it within the cosy sophistication of this 600-year-old dining room” – “a wonderful, intimate and historic” space that’s “great for grown-ups”. It’s been a restaurant since 1940 and owned by Mark Dodds since 2008, whose team provides “wonderful friendly and efficient service”. The “classic” cooking is not of the highest ambition but consistently well-realised and very reliable. Top Tips – “good value lunch and early evening menu which is wonderful for dinner before a play at the Chesil Theatre”; “lamb and game are favourite choices here”.

2023 Review: “Always reliable, serving exceptional food for a village pub”, say fans of Dave Watts’s rural inn, where classic pub dishes jostle on the menu with somewhat more ambitious fare. Top Tip – “the plat du jour is unbelievable value!”