Ulverston, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“It is a 6-6-6 in my view!” – Simon Rogan’s converted blacksmith’s workshop on the southern edge of the Lake District towards Morecambe Bay is still riding high on its elevation in 2022 to three Michelin stars: the first UK restaurant north of Watford Gap to have entered the world’s top tier, according to the ‘Guide Rouge’. Most reports of the many we receive (it’s one of the top-20 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll outside London) say such acclaim is fully justified, with more than one diner this year describing eating here the “best meal of my life, as simple as that!”. “Waiters move as though choreographed in a ballet” (“they even spotted that I was left handed and so laid out my place settings to suit me!”) and deliver “gastronomic paradise” overseen day-to-day by head chef, Paul Burgalières, who produces a 15-course menu for £250 per person, with much of the produce coming from Simon’s nearby ‘Our Farm’. Niggles? Concerns about prices have risen somewhat year on year. There is also a fear among a small minority that the experience risks becoming so “polished to perfection” as to be almost “perfunctory”. The main take-away though? “Simply the best!”

“All the style of next door with just 6 of you” – that’s the deal at Simon Rogan’s ‘behind the scenes’ dining experience at his Lakeland legend, where you eat surrounded by chefs in the development kitchen with ongoing explanations about the culinary techniques underpinning the restaurant and how they work in coordination with their own ‘Our Farm’ smallholding nearby. All reports suggest it lives up to the experience next door, but with a different ‘insider’ spin.

“A dog-friendly bar with good beer… an outstanding restaurant… and just up the road from my house!” – so says one delighted Lake District local about Kevin & Nicola Tickle’s “staggeringly good” pub, where a simpler lunchtime menu gives way at night to a ten-course offering for £120 per head. Ratings went from strength to strength here this year as a couple of diners nominated it as their best meal of the year. Kevin spent 10 years at nearby L’Enclume and was also head chef at Forest Side in Grasmere.

The “best afternoon tea ever” – arguably the main event at this “Art Deco masterpiece” of a hotel, in a “stunning location” overlooking Morecambe Bay. The food in the dining room – the ‘Sun Terrace’ – is “always enjoyable”, too; although the odd cynic says “you’re paying for the views”.

“Great Rogan food, but in a more relaxed setting!” (“Like L’Enclume on its day off!”) – no report has a bad word to say about the cuisine at this spin-off venue from the Lake District’s most renowned celebrity chef, which occupies the light-filled dining room – complete with floor-to-ceiling windows and skylight – of Linthwaite Hotel, overlooking Windermere. Chef Mark McCabe (the former chef-owner of The Ethicurean in Bristol) took over at the stoves here in early 2024, and reports say “you can taste the individual flavours making up each course”. One could argue for the award of 5/5 for the food-score here – our sole reservation is that no reporter nominates it as their best meal of the year, just that it was “altogether highly recommended”.

“A smart but ultra-comfortable Lakeland hotel with a stunning restaurant from ex-Fat Duck chef Ollie Bridgewater, who has really put his stamp on the menu over the last year, with cooking that is original, refined and absolutely delicious”. The venue itself is “spread over a couple of dining rooms, with well-set tables complete with white tablecloths”. This is “clever cooking” such as “gnocchi with identically shaped mousses of the local St James cheese – a remarkable dish with an intense truffled jus gras”; or “Lobster pappardelle – thin pasta with some herbs rolled in, excellent sauce and Oscietra caviar”. The menu is based around three courses with an ‘Origin’ menu for £90 per person; or a ‘Source Culinary Journey’ for £120 per person. As well as its evident gastronomic attributes, it’s also often recommended as a “romantic” destination too.

This rural gastropub-with-rooms in prime Lakeland tourist territory is “still good after very many years”. The concise menu has “a strong focus on vegetarian and fish dishes” (although one visitor’s husband “had a hankering for a few more meaty options”), but in any case it’s all “very tasty” and “the bar with the on-site brewery (Barngates) is excellent” too.