The Times
Tim Hayward was reassured by the menu at this restaurant-with-rooms from George Pell, formerly of L’Escargot in Soho, in this “sleepy corner of Hampstead on the Suffolk coast” – “seriously, when was the last time you saw escargots (£2 surcharge for a Ricard flambé) or a twice-baked soufflé in the wild?”
His fellow customers, in linen and “daringly sockless deck shoes”, and the crab, with a “toothpaste-like wiggle of alarmingly sweet avocado purée”, were a little “overdressed” for Tim’s liking – but everything else was pretty well perfect.
The star turn were the specials – “big stuff straight from the sea”, in this case a “brill the size of a tennis racket” and a “Leviathan lobster pavilion’d in salad and girded with chips”. Both were prepared with “elegant restraint” and timing, and the lobster in particular was “sublime”.
Tim Hayward - 2024-09-01
Drinks
Extras
