The Guardian
Grace Dent declared this “omakase fine dining” spot with just 14 counter seats from Alex Claridge of the Wilderness, his partner Rachael Whittle and head chef Piotr Szpak, to be “one of the top five seafood places in the UK today, even though it has been open for only a few months”.
It’s a “strange, industrial space” – “a paean to stainless steel, cement and stripped-back brickwork”, with a ludicrously pretentious name (a reference to Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s ‘Ancient Mariner’) and a “relentless, post-punk dark wave backing track by the likes of Lebanon Hanover” (me neither).
But it’s also “a special restaurant run by people who are at the top of their game” who will take you on a “forward-thinking, experimental, edible maritime journey that will keep you in its tentacles for at least three hours”.
Grace Dent - 2024-10-06