The Observer
Jay Rayner reviewed another venue approaching its first anniversary, the Clifton restaurant that was the follow-up to nearby Little French from chef Freddy Bird – whose cooking Jay remembered (and liked) from the Bristol Lido back in 2010.
All three of these establishments, Jay observed approvingly, exhibit “a determination to fill the plate to the very edge without recourse to daintiness or understatement. Come hungry.” Starting his meal with a “rustling heap of moon-shaped squash fritters”, he also noted that he had eaten “discs of battered and deep-fried pumpkin” all those years ago at the Lido: “I like a cook who cleaves to his own good ideas.”
“It barely needs saying that Bristol is a superb restaurant city, full of independents serving great food without faff or ludicrous ponce. The establishment at 1 York Place sums up that encouragingly bourgeois approach.”
Jay Rayner - 2024-10-27
Drinks
Extras
