Evening Standard
David Ellis expected great things from the second helping of Kemal Demirasal’s upscale Turkish cooking following his success of the first Counter in Notting Hill last year – “God it was good. Everyone said so.”
Not so. The second Counter is an absolute dud: “sharing the name seems an insult to the first-born.”
David singled out the heavy-handed deployment of pomegranate molasses as the kitchen’s greatest failing, describing it as “an acid attack, chucked across the food with such devastating potency it was hard not to suspect the chef of malicious intent. The bitter ugliness of the flavour stung.”
David Ellis - 2024-06-09