The Guardian
Grace Dent visited a hotel dining room with 170 years of feeding cross-Channel travellers behind it – these days a “rather cool seafood restaurant [with] a real sense of history in its quaint, wilfully eccentric dining room, boasting bold wallpaper, original tiled floors and mismatched dining chairs”.
A menu of “non-stop maritime madness complete with numerous devil-may-care twists” from ex-Rocksalt chef James Pearce is backed up by a “long, lovely, fishy specials board… featuring fresh whitebait, dressed crab, coal-roasted lobster and sumptuous spins on sea bass, plaice and turbot”,
In short, Grace rated it “one of the best restaurants operating along this stretch of coastline”, making “a concerted effort at every turn to pack in extra interest, flavour or pizzazz, and while some of it may not quite land, most of it does”.
Grace Dent - 2024-08-25
