The Observer
Jay Rayner did his best to enjoy the “bluntly pleasing Asian-inspired dishes” served amid an “amiable, relaxed kind of chaos” at this Edinburgh restaurant, where former Gardener’s Cottage chef Duncan Adamson runs the kitchen.
But for all his warm feelings towards the place, Jay could not hide his disappointment at the heavy-handed cooking. An early indication was the colour of the Japanese fried chicken, or karaage – “too long in the deep fat fryer” dark. And so, on tasting, it proved: “A hyper-crunchy exterior, of crusted skin which curls back on itself to provide a matrix of crevices, gives way to dense fibrous bird. This is not the best chicken karaage ever.
“Which can be expanded to describe the entire repertoire of salty-sweet, miso-slicked, soy-bathed, yuzu-dressed dishes which attract so many British-born chefs, eager to serve up flavour bomb after flavour bomb.”
Jay Rayner - 2025-01-05