Daily Mail
Tom Parker Bowles dropped in on a small and unassuming restaurant on a New Town backstreet from chef Stuart Ralston, inspired by his time working in New York and also – confusingly, perhaps – by Japanese cuisine.
No problem, said Tom, for “this isn’t a place in thrall to the cult of authenticity”. So udon soup with fresh potato noodles (“a symphony of the soft and winsome”) melded the Scottish and the Japanese, while the “succulent” fried chicken glazed with coffee and Cabernet Sauvignon may have been inspired by Korea or Taiwan. Trout temaki, meanwhile, was “lascivious” – one of Tom’s favourite adjectives.
“There’s an innate understating of Japanese technique here, with the joy of texture every bit as important as the allure of taste – it takes great skill to make things seem this laidback.”
Tom Parker Bowles - 2025-02-09
Drinks
Extras
