The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy visited a restaurant (named after US modern artist Milton Avery) that chef Rodney Wages transferred to Stockbridge last year from San Francisco, having fallen in love with Scotland and its produce while on holiday. It serves a 12-course tasting menu to just 20 guests a night and is extremely expensive (her three glasses of wine cost £145) – although Chitra seemed to find the high price justified.
The cuisine managed to be simultaneously “Californian. And Scottish. And northern. And east Asian,” while the chef ’s “genius lies in barely cooking shellfish over fire so that they poach in their own juices and taste most strenuously of themselves.”
The meat courses were “marginally less successful”, but a cheese tart was flawless. “Wages and his tiny team — just two cooking in the kitchen on the night I was in — have brought something truly special to the capital.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2025-03-16
