The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy returned to a fusion café that graduated last year to new restaurant premises in Sciennes Road, where it remains “completely unique, completely true to itself, and, like everyone who eats there, I’m completely in love with it.”
Created by first-time restaurateur Jun Au, it mixes Korean, Chinese and European elements with Scottish produce, resulting in “enlightened combos such as slow-cooked short rib jjigae with polenta, har gao ravioloni, or red curry aubergine parmesan (four words you never expect to see together)”.
“Pomelo serves food that, as well as being delicious and distinctive, makes you think about the way ingredients, cultures and histories speak to one another. And then think again.” A case in point was the kimchi jjigae, a Korean stew made with beef featherblade from the Black Isle, which Chitra at first thought “tasted close, too close to a classic boeuf bourguignon”. But “by lunch next day it’s my own palate getting a bad review. The stew is subtly stacked with flavours from east and west, and fusion cuisine doesn’t have to beat you about the chops to make its point.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2025-03-23
