The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy found sex at every turn at a new, much hyped city-centre venue from all-conquering Scoop, the people behind Ox and Finch in Finniestoun and Ka Pao in Glasgow and Edinburgh. Before setting foot inside she clocked the “big neon M sign winking at you sexily as you approach”, then came the “stunning, industrial Manhattan-vibed” interior that makes guests “feel hotter than they otherwise do”, and finally the “sexy as hell” menu (“if a touch heavy on rich meat and fish dishes. Which, admittedly, is a damn sexy problem to have”).
Oddly enough for a rave review, Chitra found quite a lot to fault in the cuisine. She didn’t like the “gloopy texture” of the kumquat kosho poured over a skate wing or the trout roe in its sauce, while the “hipster” Piedmontese agnolotti del plin was too thick and the delicate sweetness of the red prawns it accompanied was concealed by a “too-buttery, too one-note sauce”.
But a “sensational” beef tartare and a “divine” crab tart more than compensated, contributing to “the best and indeed naughtiest lunch I’ve had in a long time… Margo, I’m happy to confirm, is the hottest new restaurant in town.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2024-11-10
