The Sunday Times
Chitra Ramaswamy found herself at “the most exciting chef’s table in Scotland” – a 12-seater “open on select nights a month. It’s located under an old railway arch, which means our scenic journey through multiple courses is rhythmically punctuated by the overhead rumble of passing trains. How apt. There’s industrial chic, and then there’s actually industrial.
“Mastermind of all this is Craig Grozier, a private chef who has been on the scene in Scotland, and beyond, for more than two decades. Thank God he has gone public. His food is innovative, technical, serious yet playful (thoroughly Glaswegian then), and deeply grounded in the Scottish land and surrounding waters. I’m talking walnuts pickled in Tennant’s and woodruff foraged from the slopes of Kelvingrove Park. Terroir is a thing, also yeast. Grozier has a decade-long relationship with Islay’s renegade whisky distillery Bruichladdich, the fruits of which are dropped through the menu like apples in an orchard. Or, to be more Fallachan about it, brambles in Queen’s Park.”
“It’s only February but I think I’ve found my restaurant of the year.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2024-02-27
