The Guardian
Grace Dent found “comfort food with the chef’s foot fully on the gas” at this modest-seeming wine bar – the younger sibling of feted Cal Bruich nearby – which “holds a fig leaf over its fanciness” but is “very possibly Glasgow’s best restaurant right now”.
“I’ve seen bigger places than this struggle to send out a club sandwich, yet here they make some of the most complex and intriguing starters I’ve eaten all year. A generous bowl of Orkney scallops, fried until golden and served in a macadamia nut cream, come in a scallop consommé with finger lime and coastal greens.”
Chef-director Colin Anderson, formerly of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London, is responsible for “sensational” specials such as prime chateaubriand, with a side of jersey royals drenched in a wild garlic and chicken butter emulsion or monkfish tail poached in butter with confit fennel, bergamot gel and brown butter sauce. “The service is great – warm, relaxed, proud of how delicious the food is, and always there, while also not being there at all.”
Grace Dent - 2024-05-26
