Daily Mail
The funniest thing about Tom Parker Bowles’s review was its headline in the online edition, which billed this 16th-century former coaching joint with its own bearpit as “The Beat Inn”. Perhaps the Daily Mail, which has always prided itself on its icy professionalism, is now reduced to hiring superannuated subeditors from the old Grauniad.
“Ursine high jinks aside” – as Tom said – it’s a “rather lovely pub, recently refurbished, and smart but not showy”, with what appears to be an upmarket gastropub menu.
“Yet what appears is rather more cheffy – a breaded finger of soft meat, topped with glossy blobs of pickled-walnut emulsion, and a sauerkraut that is rather nearer to remoulade than fermented cabbage. If it’s pub grub you’re after, you’d best look elsewhere.”
Tom Parker-Bowles - 2024-05-19
