The Times
Charlotte Ivers travelled to deepest North Yorkshire to experience a 17-course tasting menu from chef Josh and sommelier Victoria Overington, formerly of York’s acclaimed Le Cochon Aveugle. Both of them, she noted with approval, are the type of nerds who obsesses over every detail, from the driftwood on the tables to the loo paper that is re-folded origami-style after each customer visit – “even by the standards of fancy restaurants that’s insane.”
The food too, much of it sourced from nearby Castle Howard, was perfect in every detail, starting with first courses that were lined up in precise regiments. “Tiny charcoal pies filled with local roe venison and smoked caviar, served on top of pine branches, smoking slightly on hot coals. Lollipops of braised ox cheek, coated in Yorkshire pudding batter with fermented cucumber jelly; like a Big Mac with pickles, which matures in your mouth to something much deeper and more subtle.”
Charlotte Ivers - 2025-02-16
Drinks
Extras
