The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell visited a “very fine old English inn” in a beautiful seaside village in the South Hams, whose owner’s nearby farm and charcuterie business (Fowlescombe and Rare & Pasture) provide much of the meat on the menu.
The beef was “as light as anything and prettily pink”, although the “fine produce” was left “shouting for attention” under an avalanche of horseradish cream, truffle, Parmesan and baby salad leaves. There were other slight misses – identical salad leaves on different courses; no cream with the “fabulous bitter chocolate tart” – but most of the cooking was up to scratch.
William also suggested an unusual tip: time your visit to coincide with low tide. For the six hours of high tide, the inn is crowded out by sailors from Salcombe who “come en masse, a dozen deep at the bar and spilling on to the street… consuming their weight in magnums of rosé and equal amounts of grilled lobster and steak”.
William Sitwell - 2024-09-29
