The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy was enticed by the promise of coal fire and smoke at this “ambitious fine-dining restaurant” with Nordic influences from former Pompadour head chef Dan Ashmore (backed by his old boss, Dean Banks), whose name apparently means ‘ash’ in Old Norse.
It is, she said, “every bit as swanky” as its predecessor, the steak restaurant Chop House – “trends may come and go, but cooking over coals will always be cool”. And while it started out with only £100-a-head tasting menus, there are now à la carte options and a three-course lunch for £35.
Cocktails and starters were impressive, including signature barbecued flatbread with aubergine dip and an “excellently scorched mackerel”. But the main courses were “hit and miss”, including day-boat cod and borlotti beans which were both slightly overcooked, and were served with ‘nduja sauce that “lacked punch”. A hearty confit duck leg braise contained “rock-hard wedges of barbecued turnip”.
Chitra was also disappointed that her ‘beetroot cooked in yesterday’s coals with burnt butter’ was “as fresh as a garden after a blast of summer rain but — and this is a general note to a restaurant named in honour of cooking over coals — more smoke please!”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2024-09-08
