The Observer
While all of Liverpool was watching the last derby at Goodison Park, Jay Rayner was two miles away at an empty (until the match finished) restaurant in the “groovy” ground floor of a landmark 1960s office block, where locally born chef Daniel Heffy has returned after years in Sweden to cook meals inspired by the North.
He’s not doctrinaire about it, Jay noted with approval. “You could get kicked out of the New Nordic clubhouse for daring to allow racy, sunkissed things like olives, lemons and that wantonly promiscuous bulb garlic into your kitchen.” Australian macadamia nuts also crop up, as a “game-changer” in a brilliant beef tartare.
Not everything worked; Scandi-style greens were over-vinegared, a Japanese-style chawanmushi savoury custard over-salted. “But I’d much prefer Heffy’s slight misses than the unambitious hits of safer cooks. Because when he gets it right, my heart simply beats faster.” Monkfish on a fish roe and chive cream sauce that would “make a lachrymose Finn weep gently with joy”. Even better was a plate of chicken, both roasted and deep fried, with quenelles of mushroom duxelles on a fermented mushroom sauce.
Jay Rayner - 2025-03-02
