The Guardian
Grace Dent was highly impressed by the “newish” seafood place from chef Tom Brown of Cornerstone, where she found cooking of “two Michelin star-level ingenuity going on, even when they’re only slinging oysters in the deep-fat fryer or doling out bread”.
They also do more complicated things with the bivalves, such as “oyster paté, which is piped back into its shell and topped with champagne jelly and purslane”.
Other highlights included a monkfish tail in a rich XO sauce and a dessert of warm gingerbread and Cashel Blue cheese. Pearly Queen may not be cheap, Grace concluded, “but it is a paean to fine British ingredients, and to splurging on butter and decadent dining”.
“Put simply, there will be things at Pearly Queen that you will never have eaten elsewhere, though that’s not to say you won’t do in future, once other people shamelessly rip them off.”
Grace Dent - 2024-03-25
