Daily Mail
In a week where several critics have visited long-established restaurants, Tom Parker Bowles reviewed a 21-year-old venture which is very much a “family affair” – set up in 2004 by Margot Henderson, wife of St John’s Fergus, Rochelle Canteen is now run by their son Hector in the kitchen, while daughter Frances is out front.
Tom chose an idyllic late-summer afternoon – “we could be in Ibiza or the Aeolian islands, Paros or the South of France” – and feasted on devilled rabbit hearts on toast, “a dish that sounds brutally visceral but, like everything else here, shows the lightest of culinary touches”, and sweatbreads. In other words, like father, like son.
“But it’s not all offal” – a girolle and pecorino tart and juicy roast Sutton Hoo chicken were “simple things, beautifully done”. The verdict: “Not just an escape from London, but, like all great restaurants, a welcome respite from the daily grind.”
Tom Parker-Bowles - 2024-09-22
Drinks
Extras
