The Times
Charlotte Ivers ventured for brunch to this Scandi-inspired venue off Broadway Market in Hackney, which she found to be “everything you think Sune is going to be… High ceilings, exposed fittings, artfully distressed wooden floor,” and a clientele who “all look as if they used to take drugs, but are now more focused on getting little Toby into a nursery where they teach Chinese and baby yoga”.
Ouch! Was this going to get nasty? But no, Charlotte had nothing but praise for Sune’s ugly food and natural wines – the latter “something that sends m’learned colleague on the daily paper [ie Giles Coren, absent this week presumably on half-term duty] into fits of despair”.
Her pick of the small plates was a croque monsieur spread with beef tartare, apparently a favourite of the chef to soak up a few beers after a long shift. “It’s the sort of stodgy, cloggy mess you’d fall upon after a drink or three, or even more so the morning after. It tastes wonderful, despite looking as if someone could have dropped it on the way to the table.”
In conclusion: “This is undoubtedly one of the trendiest places in London, but you don’t see its stuff on Instagram. This is taste-first food.”
Charlotte Ivers - 2024-06-02
Drinks
Extras
