Harden's says
Opened in September 2021, the new project from Russell Norman, who left the Polpo group last year. Thanks to The Sunday Times critic Marina O'Loughlin for spotting the new Instagram name and truffling this one out. Norman confirmed the project and says that the trattoria "has a Tuscan accent" and that the food comes from the heart of Italy "where flavour is more important than favour".
Harden's survey result
Summary
“Shocking news when Russell Norman died” in November 2023 – his legacy remains this “buzzy, brilliant Italian trattoria in the City of London” that was his “homage to hearty Tuscan food” and which is now run by his widow Jules and son Ollie. Perhaps it’s “a bit too cramped for comfort” and there’s “loud, thumpy music”, but most diners feel “it just gets everything right”. “It’s hard to get a table, but with Negronis at £5...who is surprised?”. The food is “not stellar, but fine-to-good” and – importantly – also generous and comforting (as exemplified by its best known dishes the ‘Bistecca alla Fiorentina’ and its ‘Coccoli’ – cuddles – of deep fried dough with soft cheese and prosciutto). “Cosy, cute and very romantic, go there for any occasion… but with a date it’s even better!”
Summary
Russell Norman’s skillful love letter to Florentine trattorias is “hard to fault for a classic Italian” and, in particular, its “buzzy” (“if noisy” and “crowded”) “glamourous” style is a brilliant escape from the grey streets of Clerkenwell (near Smithfield Market). The “Negronis are lethal” and the “heavy-hitting, rustic fodder” is “simply done, but top quality”. An archetypal ‘Bistecca alla Fiorentina’ (T-bone steak) is a central menu feature, as are lesser-known treats such as “the moreish coccoli (or ‘cuddles’) of deep-fried dough that you stuff with soft cheese and prosciutto”. For all its virtues, though, Russell is a darling of the foodie media, so the place receives regular “hype”, and the only weaker reviews come from those expecting more culinary fireworks, given that “the food is good, but not great”.
Summary
“Very cool… very Tuscan… great negronis… it’s like going on a mini-break!” – Russell Norman’s “dark and sexily down-to-earth” newcomer is “a fun riff on a Florentine trattoria theme (steak Florentine stars on the menu) from the founder of the late-lamented Polpo, and a very worthwhile addition to the Smithfield area”. He’s achieved “a superb homage” – it’s “skilfully run with its own distinct personality”, staff are “charming” and if it’s “true that it’s noisy, it’s good noise: the sound of people enjoying themselves!”. Practically nobody has a bad word to say about the “delightfully non-standard Italian food” either: “rustic dishes that are generally simple and well-executed”. “I rarely return this many times, in such a short space of time, but this place has it all!” Top Menu Tip – “anchovy with sourdough is the perfect simple starter”.
Summary
On the Smithfield site that was most recently Mark Hix’s Chophouse (RIP) – and which has a recent history of meaty destinations – ex-Polpo supremo, Russell Norman continues in a somewhat similar vein with the launch of this modern Italian venture in September 2021. The Tuscan cuisine will make a feature of Bistecca alla Fiorentina alongside many homemade pasta dishes and is inspired by the simple, neighbourhood restaurants of Florence. Russell even purchased a 1980s electric typewriter of the same make as one of the restaurants he visited in Italy for maximum authenticity when it came to the feel of the menu.
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Trattoria Brutto?
35-37 Greenhill Rents, London, EC1M 6BN
Restaurant details
Trattoria Brutto Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Nice little Italian"
"Very busy and clearly popular. Were were 2 people. We shared a starter of liver pate on toast. We each had a pasta dish Tortelloni in Brodo and Caveatelli Primavera [pasta with vegetables]. The dishes were too salty although behind the salt there was good dish trying to get out. We had one glass of red and some water and the bill was £58 including service. The service was very good. The ambience was just what you would want but the music playing loudly made it difficult to chat. OK we are too old."
"Outstanding! What an experience!"
Prices
 Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £30.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £3.00 |
 Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 10.00% |
35-37 Greenhill Rents, London, EC1M 6BN
Opening hours
| Monday | CLOSED |
| Tuesday | 12 pm‑2:45 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑2:45 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑2:45 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm |
| Friday | 12 pm‑2:45 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑2:45 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm |
| Sunday | CLOSED |
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