The Observer
Jay Rayner found messy satisfaction at a new North American-inspired sandwich spot from Andre Blais, the Ottawa-born and Detroit-raised veteran of moules-frites specialist Belgo in the early 90s and US smokehouse Bodeans 10 years later.
At his new place, Andre pays tribute to his father Gerry, a native of Montreal, with its culture of smoked-meat sandwiches, as well as the wider North American tradition of the submarine, aka the hoagie or torpedo.
“My, it’s good,” Jay smacked his lips at one of the many combinations he tasted, declaring: “happiness is a handful of lunch and dressing running down your forearms.” The Philly cheesesteak was possibly as good as that served at Passyunk Avenue. “That’s the point: these subs are good enough to be debated.”
Given the Montreal link, a side order of poutine was all it should be, “chips under a swamp of starch-thickened gravy and proper squeaky cheese curds”, while “the £6.95 Caesar salad is seriously good, in a city which regularly defames that worthy dish.”
Jay Rayner - 2024-06-02
