The Observer
Jay Rayner made no bones about his disappointment at this “chilly” restaurant in the former Sandeman port HQ, where veteran chef Rowley Leigh has been hired to oversee the menu, setting up high expectations for his classic repertoire of “comfort food, made classy”.
“The cooking is just terribly uneven”, Jay moaned. “Too often, it feels as if the kitchen is still working its way through the manual Leigh left behind.” Worse still, he found the place expensive and the servings somewhat minimal – “Rowley Leigh’s generous touch in the kitchen [is] completely missing in action, and that’s quite the disappointment.”
Jay Rayner - 2024-12-22
