The Times
Tim Hayward celebrated the 15th anniversary of a “plucky little independent” which he characterised as the “bastard love child of St John, out of the River Café, with a fair smattering of Jamie Oliver grated over the surface”.
Everything about it was pretty well perfect, from the rope-powered lift at the pass and the “genuinely hospitable” front of house staff, to the brilliant house-made pasta, the “barely restrained” Cornish turbot wrapped in lardo di Colonnata and the ricotta doughnuts with freshly made vanilla custard.
“I reckon Trullo got it right pretty much on day one and they’ve been doing it brilliantly ever since,” Tim declared. “Trullo might be the youngest of the classics but it has seriously old bones.”
Tim Hayward - 2024-12-22