The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell did his level best to be generous to this laudable charitable enterprise which recruits staff from the “homeless community”, but he could not disguise his disappointment at the meanness of his meal.
Set in the “pleasant surroundings” of Primrose Hill, the restaurant is “sweet, sensible and conformist with buckets of warm conviviality”, and serves “safe and respectable brasserie fare” – “it defines itself as fine dining but, frankly, it’s not”.
This might be quite acceptable, especially as the food was all perfectly cooked and tasty, but William’s main dish of chicken “took me about three seconds to eat”. “For the place to really thrive it needs a little more oomph, more zest, more thrills and spills, more thrust and a bit more food… big sides of charred veg, bowls of steaming soup, big fat puds and gaudy chunks of cheese. A feast that befits its splendid cause.”
William Sitwell - 2024-11-24
