The Times
For his last “proper review” before switching to a new food column, Tim Hayward headed to “inarguably the best dining room in London” at the “beyond beautiful” Midland Grand Hotel, for its opening night under chef Victor Garvey, of Californian-inflected Sola in Soho.
Never keen on tasting menus, Tim chose a “modest” 7-course version – “I never thought I’d describe £129 as ‘a snip’, but we live in monstrous times.” It followed a pretty standard progression of French-Mediterranean cuisine: a trio of canapes, a foie gras course, fish, duck and dessert.
But Garvey – “a force of nature” in Tim’s view – made something “particularly interesting” of it. “He’s steeped in European tradition, obsessed with modern Michelin idiom, but he’s, well, American. In a good way. He doesn’t let any of that stuff get in the way and instead throws everything he’s got at it with unembarrassed enthusiasm.
“It feels good to have been there, at the start of something spectacular.”
Tim Hayward - 2025-03-09
Drinks
Extras
