Harden's says
A fourth branch of the Murano chain.
Harden's survey result
Summary
“Reliably good Italian food at fair prices” and particularly “switched-on service” won revitalised support this year for Angela Hartnett’s “very serviceable” mini-chain, which is generally a “very safe choice”, and – at its best – “memorable” in the level of “very confident” cooking it can achieve. Even fans, though, concede the “atmosphere can be a bit low key”, in particular at the “rather gloomy” WC2 branch (and the best reports are at St James’s).
Summary
“A good choice for a light meal in the centre of own, with a broad menu of uncomplicated dishes to suit most people”, and offering “a delicious and authentic taste of Italy” – that’s how their large army of followers see Angela Hartnett’s “buzzy” and “unpretentious” cafés, proclaiming them “a decent effort all in all”. Major complaints are few, but ratings overall end up middling due to gripes of “tired” décor; or culinary results that are “OK but nothing special”. Top Menu Tip – “the arancini are always worth a go”.
Summary
Angela Hartnett’s chain continues to split opinion in our annual diners survey. To their very many fans, these comfortable and well-located Italians (in Covent Garden, St James’s, and now also in Borough) are a real “favourite” thanks to their “buzzy” atmosphere, staff who are “always friendly and helpful” and their “wonderful” trattoria food (“gutsy peasant-type dishes, including good pasta”). Even fans, though, can feel that “prices are only just about OK for the quality” and harsher sceptics just feel they “trade on the Murano name” with a formula that’s just too “unimaginative”.
Summary
“Perhaps hopes were too high?” – Angela Hartnett’s spin-off Italians in Covent Garden and St James’s inspire a lot of feedback, but much of it is mixed. Fans do applaud her for “succeeding where most others fail in establishing a couple of cheaper ventures that follow her style, but do not feel part of a factory-made chain; and which provide some excellent, simple Italian cooking and carefully chosen wines”. But for many sceptics, the gloss is taken off the experience either by “food that’s fine but not exceptional; not-wholly-interested service; or a lack of ambience” (WC2 can be “very noisy”). She must be doing something right however, as in June 2019 she submitted plans to take over the Bermondsey site some will recall as Zucca (RIP) to become her next outlet. Top Tip – “a useful stop pre-theatre but the set menu never seems to meet expectations, so it’s better to stick with the à la carte”.
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
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