The Times
Charlotte Ivers used this new Burmese spot around the corner from the Sunday Times offices to demonstrate how eating in declinist Britain has improved immeasurably in the past 50 years – “Wow, aren’t we lucky!”
The third London restaurant from Dan Anton and Zaw Mahesh, it is named after lahpet, pickled tea leaves eaten in salads, and its deep orange walls, dark wooden floor and soft warm lighting “make you feel as though you’re in a Richard Curtis film as you approach on a cold, dark winter’s evening.”
The food is light and bright, sour, salty and spicy, with lots of ginger and garlic. “If you like Thai or Lao food, you’re in with a good shout here,” Charlotte chirruped. “Listen to me: ‘If you like Lao food’!”
“It doesn’t really matter what you order, to be honest. I know this because I went back and ate most of the rest of the menu. It’s all great.”
Charlotte Ivers - 2024-12-08
