The Times
Tim Hayward was thrilled to announce that he has found a new “local”, four minutes’ walk from London Bridge station, 85 minutes direct via Thameslink from Cambridge, where he lives another short walk from the station. Better still, Trivet is (he believes) the only Michelin two-star in the country to offer a full à la carte instead of a tasting menu – so he can treat himself “without having to endure three hours of some chef noodling through his version of a three-disc concept album”.
Speaking of noodles, his favourite dish was ‘Drunken Lobster’ – a tail “literally stewed in its own juices” and served on a bed of fresh-made hand-cut noodles with a coarse surface, so the broth clings. “This was a superlative dish…. Bloody brilliant”. Chicken breast in a vinegar sauce attributed to Paul Bocuse was also a winner – “it takes a certain amount of self-confidence and no little brio to put poulet au vinaigre on a menu in 2024, but then chef Jonny Lake is richly endowed with both”.
Tim also had good words to say about Isa Bal, the man behind Trivet’s three-inch-thick wine list – “whispered to be an eccentric genius, and I will not argue.” To celebrate his newfound local, he threw in a couple of good words of his own – the sort of chewy locutions that send readers to Google for elucidation: “antiscorbutic” and “toroidal”.
Tim Hayward - 2024-11-03
Drinks
Extras
