A “delightful small restaurant”.
Jay Rayner was in Deptford in search of oyster excellence at Sharkbait & Swim, a “restless, mildly eccentric seafood restaurant” that “occupies a red-brick railway arch” in Deptford Market Yard. The “plump and pert” bivalves served here compared favourably to the best oysters he’s ever eaten, in New Orleans. (“High praise, indeed.”)
The open kitchen “can seat around 20 at high-top tables, as long as diners don’t mind a bit of armpit and elbow intimacy”; covers double in summer so it’s a good time to go.
Chef-owner Steve McClarty was homeless at 17 and taught himself to cook with YouTube videos before enrolling in catering college; he worked at Google and with Jason Atherton before settling in Deptford.
The most expensive dish here is a whole sea bream, lightly battered and deep fried – even the oysters are £15 for six, “a good price for anywhere within the M25, and most places outside it for that matter”.
Jay Rayner - 2023-07-24
