Harden's survey result
Summary
“A menu of deep historical appreciation and stimulating intellectual connections adds up to a total experience that’s much more than great fine dining”, according to fans of Heston Blumenthal’s Knightsbridge venue, whose “original takes on classic English cuisine” are, apparently, inspired by Heston’s love of historic British gastronomy and research into cookbooks from the 14th century onwards. Supporters say “the signature meat fruit and tipsy cake are so good, you can just have them every time” and that his other more recent (re)creations can also be “magnificent”. But that it’s a case of “Emperor’s new clothes” is another commonly held belief about this hotel dining room, which – in 1 in 3 reports – is said by diners to be their most “overpriced” meal of the year; and which, despite Hyde Park views from some tables, struggles to generate much in the way of atmosphere. “Seriously, a disappointment after The Fat Duck. Just not value for money!”
Summary
“Mystified as to why this place is considered special in any way…” – too often the reaction at this Heston Blumenthal-group chamber off Knightsbridge. True, it does still have some loyal fans who “have never had a bad meal” from the menu of historically inspired dishes (“I can’t agree that the meat fruit is getting boring!”); and who swoon at the “lovely view of Hyde Park”. But even some who acknowledge its plus points feel that “what was once innovative and stylish is now populated almost exclusively by Instagram wielding tourists who have yet to realise London cuisine has moved on”. And harsher critics encounter “one of the most disappointing meals ever”: “no ambience and so much money!” (“the nitro ice-cream had no flavour and felt like a gimmick”). Inexplicably, this place continues to hold two Michelin stars. Actually, it’s completely explicable when you realise that Michelin often act like slaves to celebrity…
Summary
Some “stunning” meals (“you just can’t beat the tipsy cake!”) are still reported at Heston Blumenthal’s Knightsbridge outpost, but the feeling that it’s losing its way is stronger than ever. Despite a menu shake-up in 2020 (a shift away from its increasingly stale menu of Ye Olde English dishes to a more mainstream ‘Edible History’ menu), its ratings continue to disappoint across the board. The chief complaint is that it’s “so overpriced and overhyped”, not helped by its bizarrely high rating from Michelin (who are asleep at the wheel on this one, presumably because they don’t want to upset Heston by downgrading it). Too often reporters have “no idea how this place got two stars”, saying that “whilst technically the dishes aren’t wrong, for the most part they are utterly pedestrian. We paid £660 for 2 for lunch with 5 glasses of wine between us. Off the top of my head, I can think of 20 restaurants in the capital alone that are more interesting and better value”. And it’s not as though the hotel-style dining room provides much in the way of compensation, either: “like sitting in an airport lounge… just with even less personality…”.
Summary
“If you can overlook the stratospheric prices, and don’t go often enough to tire of the historical menu” (“we’ve all heard about the Meat Fruit now, thanks!”), then Heston Blumenthal’s Knightsbridge dining room can, say fans, “still deliver stand-out dishes with precise execution, Heston-eque flourishes” and “bold and exciting flavours”. Even supporters, though, caution that “you must get someone else to pay” (“even with great cooking, the bill’s terrible value”) and to its worst critics it’s becoming “a horrible and stale experience”, especially given an environment that feels ever-more “soulless and hotel-like”.
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal?
Mandarin Oriental, 66 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7LA
Restaurant details
Prices
| Availability | 2 courses | 3 courses |  |
 |
 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Always | £195.00 |  |
|
|
| Cost | Availability | Courses | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Menu1 | Always available | 3 |
Traditional European menu
| Starter | Main | Veggies | Pudding |
|---|---|---|---|
| £28.00 | £60.00 | £8.00 | £22.00 |
| Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £50.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £6.00 |
| Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 15.00% |
Mandarin Oriental, 66 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7LA
Opening hours
| Monday | 12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Tuesday | 12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Friday | 12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Sunday | 12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9 pm |
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