The Observer
“The whole thing feels mildly ill-at-ease with itself.”
Jay Rayner reviewed The Campaner, “the new London outpost of an apparently famous restaurant group in Barcelona” that’s dropped into the private “Qatari-funded development which occupies what was once Chelsea Barracks”. Prices for the mostly Spanish menu are what you’d expect for the location.
It’s “a red brick edifice of vaulting arches” decorated with “oversized lampshades” and “giant tins of caviar”. There are small plates and some “fearsomely priced big plates” on offer.
“Some of the food here is really very good. Granted, some of it isn’t. A couple of dishes make us frown and tut. But the good things are terrific.” (Try the vitello tonnato ‘Frankie Gallo Cha Cha Cha’ but avoid the “spicy sausage rolls”, while Catalan “socarrat” with red prawns is “an absolute belter of a dish”.)
“The eating is mainly good here – as long as you have deep pockets.”
Jay Rayner - 2023-10-15
