Evening Standard
David Ellis was the first critic to review the latest of Jason Atherton’s current wave of five London openings, finding it “a restaurant for anyone, at any time, on any occasion”.
He reported with approval that “price seems to be a priority for Atherton” (who has recently declared that ‘fine dining’ is just too expensive these days), so wine is sold by the pint (cheaper than a bottle), there are prix fixe meals at £28 for 2 courses and £32 for 3, a “heaving Sunday roast under £30”, and a service charge of just 9%.
The “enormous menu”, meanwhile, is generous and full of “treasures” – “big, heavy, comforting, blanket-by-the-fire stuff”, such as slices of Marmite custard tart “with blow-torched tops and endless umami”. “Hereford snail and ox cheek lasagne billed as ‘100-layer’ might numerically disappoint, but with its honking great flavour — and maths hardly a strong suit — I didn’t give a monkey’s.”
David Ellis - 2024-10-20
