The Sunday Times
Giles Coren sampled two contrasting venues: a “humming East End boozer” and a “serene, high-ceilinged drawing room” in South Kensington, each of which lived up to its address.
The Prince Arthur was “loud” in both noise (music, laughter, screaming kids) and food – the latter including a big slab of “beef dripping toast piled with richly seasoned flatiron tartare, the chewy shoulder beef full of capers and cornichons and tabasco and all that stuff”, half a pound of rare and charred bavette with real chips and cress and a rhubarb ‘bombe Alaska’ that was “just the thing”.
The Lavery was “gorgeous.. just wow… full of sunlight and soft spring air and gleaming alabaster, mirrors and bas-reliefs”, with food (asparagus, gnocchi, stuffed rabbit leg and Middle White pork chop) whose “quiet” flavours were “precise and sexy”.
Giles declined to choose between the two, declaring: “I need both in my life”.
Giles Coren - 2025-04-13