The Times
Back in London after his summer hols, Giles Coren went in search of the fabulous – and fabulously inexpensive – cooking and beer he had enjoyed in Bavaria. Much to his surprise, the new central London branch of this Manchester-based group came much closer than he had expected.
His favourite Bavarian dish, the splendidly named ‘schweinshax’n’ (or more prosaic pork knuckle) “was as beautifully done as in Tegernsee, with a lovely, rich beer sauce. At £19.50 it was considerably more expensive, but … again, would have fed two. I think that’s cracking value.”
Albert’s is not for the faint-hearted, though – it’s a noisy, rollicking bear-pit of a venue, Giles warned: “Don’t come here if you’re over 35 or easily startled by loud noises, table dancing and public sex (to be fair I did come on a Friday night, which is no time to be in Soho). But if you’re planning a hen do, dig a live Lionel Richie cover and have never had a roasted crispy pig’s knee, well, this is your lucky day.”
Giles Coren - 2024-09-15
