The Guardian
Grace Dent headed to Pollen Street in Mayfair, where the prolific Jason Atherton has cast off the trappings of “Michelin” (aka fine) dining at his former Social flagship, replacing it under a new name and casual “come-one come-all, pre-theatre, boozy-treat, long-lunch vibe” – thereby “pricking the bubble of those who adore pomp and small portions” and “annoying people who like telling you that they’ve experienced this pomp everywhere from Dundee to Dubai”.
“The paper tablecloths, the soft-serve ice-cream sundaes, the offer of curry mayo on the two-course £29 prix fixe are all daggers to the heart of fancy diners.” Mind you, Grace added, “chef Alex Parker’s menu is still secretly fancy”, with its Lyonnaise onion agnolotti, Orkney scallops with ajo blanco, rabbit leg with lovage persillade butter and Cornish brill with surf clam pil pil.
Finishing off with a Calvados doughnut from a puddings list that’s “a menace to public health”, Grace was all in favour of the transformation.
Grace Dent - 2024-09-29
