Evening Standard
“This Balearic beauty is a grill on fire.”
Jimi Famurewa is the first of our regular critics to review Mountain, “Tomos Parry’s spanking new, instantly thronged successor to the Michelin-starred Brat” in central Soho – he snuck in “on only the fourth proper day of trading”.
It’s a “smoke-wreathed pleasuredome” where even a fire alarm in the middle of service didn’t shift diners from their meals, a “bold, brooding expansion of Parry’s signature, Basque-accented approach” with “oceanic flavour depth and cloud-skimming technical brilliance”.
“There is a magnetic, tactile sensuousness to so much of the food” and “hidden complexity in so many dishes… that consistently took my breath away”.
“So rousing, so unforgettable and, yes, so deserving of the fuss and attention currently engulfing it.” (*****)
Jimi Famurewa - 2023-07-24
