Harden's says
Opened in summer 2023 after years of pandemic-induced delay, this Soho seafood specialist (named after a much-loved 20th-century original) over two storeys of the Bateman's Buildings, between Greek and Frith Streets, is the first major opening from the Wolseley Hospitality Group since it was acquired (and renamed) from ace London restaurateurs Corbin & King last year.
Harden's survey result
Summary
“Down a dodgy alleyway in Soho”, this “spectacularly camp new seafood emporium is presided over by a sculpture of Poseidon with mermaids perched at the corners of the bar”. Named for a “venerable” post-war fish and seafood institution that for decades operated just north of Leicester Square (to close in 2006), this “massive investment” is not a relaunch as such, but a homage to its former namesake by restaurant impresarios Jeremy King and Chris Corbin, who ironically ended up parting company with owners, The Wolseley Group, before the project’s ultimate debut in June 2023. After its first year in operation, it still feels like a work in progress. To fans it’s “OTT… in a good way” thanks to the “amazing decor” and a menu of “seafood heaven” (“Monkfish Wellington is an instant classic”). The verdict is split though by critics who think it’s just “ludicrously opulent”, “soulless” and “formulaic” (“as charming as a motorway service station, with decor that Bet Lynch would have been proud of; and overpriced food that’s more ‘Tesco Finest’ than catch of the day”). It doesn’t help that service can still be “a bit rough around the edges”; but with work it feels like this still has the potential to be a worthwhile institution in the making.
Summary
Few openings are as long anticipated as this resurrection of a long-defunct, once-famous seafood destination. Conceived when its owning company was still run by Jeremy King and Christopher Corbin, the final debut is the first major test of the ability of its successor, The Wolseley Group, to launch a new site. The business that forms the inspiration for this debut was in Chinatown, just off Leicester Square, and shuttered in the early 1990s. This revivified version is in ‘Bateman’s Buildings’, tucked between Soho’s Greek and Frith Streets. Set over two floors, it’s an all-day operation with a large outdoor terrace. Dishes encompass everything from moules marinière to a wide range of crustacea, a ‘catch of the day’ and a classic Dover sole.
Summary
This long-planned and long pandemic-delayed Soho seafood restaurant may be delayed still further by the management changes at Corbin & King, now renamed as The Wolseley Hospitality Group. It is envisaged as a ‘fun and affordable’ venue along the lines of stablemate Brasserie Zédel. But – in the absence of Jeremy King and Chris Corbin – who will now provide the vision for recreating the original Manzi’s, which was, for decades, a treasured standby for theatregoers on the south corner of Chinatown?
Summary
Remember the original Manzi’s on a corner south of Chinatown? You’re definitely dating yourself. Nearby (if not quite on exactly the same site) the great Corbin & King are launching this homage to the original. The aim is to be ‘fun and affordable’ like Brasserie Zédel with something of a 1940s vibe. That hits the rose-tinted remembrances of the original, which – for ages – was one of London’s great post-theatre rendezvous.
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Manzi's?
1 Bateman's Buildings, London, W1D 3EN
Restaurant details
Manzi's Restaurant Diner Reviews
"This was overpriced, not particularly nice food. But the main reason none of our party will be returning is the service. Is was dreadful. They were slow, rude and dismissive. We were unpleasantly surprised."
"The yellowfin tuna starter was simply delicious!"
"Poor food - but at least inexpensive. But the wine is apalling value. No dry whites for under £42, Muscadet £52. The £32 wine we chose was a £7 supermarket wine and not nice. Even by London standards this is very bad. I won't come again. Shame because nice decor."
"Really tasty, some innovative dishes, good value and wonderful setting. I’m expecting to return - business or friends. "
"There was definitely more meat on the menu which disappointed me but still plenty of fish to choose from. Started with a tasty sardine bruschetta and followed with a hake fillet which was delicious. Ended with a very, good butter almond tart and finally a lovely pot of coffee which was a least three cups. I would enjoy my visits more with a more of an atmosphere but the food was faultless."
"Although the menu has changed since our first visit and now offers some attractive priced menus the quality of the cooking has unfortunately not improved!"
"Very disappointing visit. So few people eating that the place felt empty. Service was lacklustre and the quality of the food was indifferent. The bill was substantial, by contrast "
1 Bateman's Buildings, London, W1D 3EN
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