Evening Standard
David Ellis went to a six-year-old Sri Lankan whose owner, Dom Fernandes, has “tarted-up” the interior and replaced the original menu with six-course tasting options (carnivore, pescatarian or vegetarian) at £65 – in truth, the standard three courses “divvied up differently”.
Never mind that, the food is of “formidable quality” – much of it “so furiously spiced that it could cure colds”, and some extremely complex: in a bowl of “stripper-pink” rasam, “the usual base of tomato was foregone in favour of lacto-fermented raspberries, a technique more usually associated with Copenhagen three-star Noma.”
David played his trump card in his final paragraph, declaring: “I didn’t eat this well in Sri Lanka itself when I visited a fortnight ago.”
David Ellis - 2025-03-02