Evening Standard
Theming his review around Valentine’s Day, David Ellis declared his passion for a restaurant he loves – upstairs at a veteran Soho watering-hole, where Scottish chef Neil Borthwick (“primary influences Michel Bras and Phil Howard”) has run the kitchen since 2018.
“Have you ever fallen for a friend, noticing their looks long after the first meet?” David asked. “The French is a bit like that. Unassuming until it isn’t.”
He enjoyed dishes of calves brain and cod, pointing out that this is food that “does not show off” – which means the restaurant can be returned to time and again. “It is conspiratorial, trustworthy, fun, encouraging, and reliably always there, whether in times of crisis or celebration. What else is there in love?”
David Ellis - 2025-02-09