The Guardian
Grace Dent has seen the future of dining out – “once the AI robots rule the Earth and we’re down to bugs, dust and 3D-printed gateaux”. And, following her visit to the new Dean Street branch of a Scandinavian steakhouse group whose first London venue opened near Liverpool Street last year, it’s not a happy future.
The steak itself “was gorgeous, aged in Himalayan salt and cooked to a perfect medium rare” – but almost everything else about Köd (which she said is pronounced ‘cud’) was wrong. The service “sleepy and noncommittal”, the steak “flown in from all over the world because clearly steak improves with air miles”, beef tacos “crunchy, ready-made poppadoms filled with beef stodge that explode at first bite”.
It was, Grace said, the oddest place I’ve eaten in all year” – “a place for people who would find an Angus Steakhouse wilfully experimental”, serving “comfort food with little finesse, from a kitchen than is doing the best they can with lacklustre, cheap, ready-made supplies”.
Grace Dent - 2024-09-22
