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Harden's says
Holy Guacamole, Batman! The basement near Piccadilly Circus that was Mash Steakhouse (RIP) has been taken over. With their evil masterplan it’s been relaunched. But not just as a themed diner. Oh no! But a ‘Gastronomic Amusement Park’ with five restaurants, three bars and 330 covers in total. For the 20-seat Monarch Theatre experience, enjoy 11-courses for… £195 per person. Great Scott!! There are some serious folks in the kitchen here, though. Executive Chef of The Monarch Theatre, Karl O’Dell, was formerly head chef of the sadly now defunct, but superb Texture (RIP).
Harden's survey result
Summary
Despite the larger-than-life Marvel theme (enter through a bookcase in a library) and big backing (including the involvement of DC Comics and Warner Bros), this sizable basement two-year-old near Piccadilly Circus doesn’t make many waves – too few reports for a rating, although such feedback as we did receive was positive. That some aspects of its approach are surprisingly upmarket perhaps actually limits its appeal: instead of being a fun, cartoony schlockfest, the decor is in fact rather classy; and although there’s now a cheap set menu option (including for ‘Little Gothamites’), the à la carte or Monarch Theatre experience are priced beyond the reach of ‘casual dining’. Still, with extensive AV in some areas, for a themed, business-related event it can be a natural.
Summary
“A wonderful themed entrance, through a bookcase in a library and down dark, futuristic stairs” sets an appropriate scene at this Marvel-themed basement (in association with Warner Bros), just off Piccadilly Circus. “The décor of the restaurant itself, though, contains rather less fantasy… without the entrance you might not even guess the Marvel-connection… it feels more jazz-age New York or an ocean liner”. (“Contrary to my impression from the website, it is essentially one big room containing most of the different restaurants and bars, although the differences between them are subtle.”) “The food is a mixed bag”: some items are “excellent”, but “despite the talented chef, other dishes are overpriced or subpar”. Overall, though, leaving aside the cartoonish prices, everyone accepts that there is some serious culinary endeavour going on here. And such feedback that we have on the most expensive option (the exotic tasting menu in the separate ‘Monarch Theatre’ experience) says it’s “exceptional”.
Summary
Holy Guacamole, Batman! The basement near Piccadilly Circus that was Mash Steakhouse (RIP) has been taken over by Wonderland Restaurant group, in association with Warner Bros and DC. With their evil master plan it’s been relaunched. But not just as a themed diner. Oh no! But a ‘Gastronomic Amusement Park’ with five restaurants, three bars and 330 covers in total. For the 20-seat Monarch Theatre experience, enjoy 11-courses for… £195 per person. Great Scott!! There are some serious folks in the kitchen here, though. Executive chef at The Monarch, Karl O’Dell, was formerly head chef of the sadly now defunct, but superb, Texture (RIP).
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Park Row?
77 Brewer Street, London, W1F 9ZN
Restaurant details
Prices
Drinks | |
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Wine per bottle | £42.00 |
Filter Coffee | £4.50 |
Extras | |
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Bread | £8.00 |
Service | 15.00% |
77 Brewer Street, London, W1F 9ZN
Opening hours
Monday | 05.005 pm‑1 am |
Tuesday | 05.005 pm‑1 am |
Wednesday | 05.005 pm‑1 am |
Thursday | 12 pm‑1.00 |
Friday | 12 pm‑1.00 |
Saturday | 12 pm‑1.00 |
Sunday | 1 pm‑9 pm |
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