The Observer
Jay Rayner was “genuinely intrigued” to visit a new Brazilian-inspired outfit next to the Brazilian Consulate, drawn by its promise of serving each main dish with five signature sauces – representing spicy, sour, umami, salty and sweet – for the diner to enjoy mix-and-matching.
Much to Jay’s disappointment, plates of cooked chicken breast and “three meagre slices of beef” arrived with five notably lacklustre sauces “dotted around like splodges on an artist’s palette”. There was no clear connection to Brazil.
“Maroto feels like a restaurant conceived in one long brainstorming session, during which everyone got bored and just settled for ideas which sounded convincing, so they all could go home, regardless of whether they made the slightest bit of sense or not.”
Jay Rayner - 2024-10-20
