Harden's says
Opened in October 2020, a Mexican restaurant from Santiago Lastra, who ran Noma's Mexico pop-up back in 2017.
Harden's survey result
Summary
‘Mexican soul, British ingredients’ is the mantra at Santiago Lastra’s and MJMK’s “high-end” Latino venue off Portman Square, which has acquired a formidable reputation for its “wonderful” cooking – “their way of handling chillies is a masterclass” and contributes to a “fantastic” nine-course menu for £175 per person, all served in a “casual” and stylish setting. It’s “maybe a little overhyped claiming it’s the 17th best restaurant in the world” – and the UK’s best restaurant – according to World’s 50 Best listing: it certainly isn’t the highest scoring restaurant in our annual diners’ poll and for its deepest critics “the phrase Emperor’s New Clothes comes to mind”. But that’s not a widespread feeling of scepticism: the general impression is of an excellent venue that deserves most, just not quite all, of the accolades that have come its way.
Summary
“A revelation: I don’t think I really understood the beauty of chillies until I went to Kol, where they complement different ingredients in each dish… a gentle burn… never overpowering but genius!” – Santiago Lastra’s smart and well-spaced dining room, just off Portman Square, is justifiably hailed by its fans as “one of the more interesting restaurants in the capital”. “Top- quality, seasonal British produce is turned into amazing, refined Mexican food” and it “constantly surprises with its journey around Mexican spicing and cuisine, with many wonderful twists on traditional Latin flavours”. To accompany the menu there is a list of mezcals (and indeed an adjoining ‘mezcaleria’ and cocktail bar) and “many unusual wines which explore the less well known parts of the globe”. “Some of the cooking is clever, some beautifully presented, and it’s all excellent”.
Summary
“Ex-Noma pop-up chef, Santiago Lastra’s sort-of fine dining Mexican successfully redefines street food at this warm and high-end dining room”, just off Portman Square – “a welcome addition to Marylebone” that “deserves the hype” and which is emerging as one of London’s more “exciting” destinations right now. “The open kitchen allows the man himself to be seen” and a meal “feels like an occasion”, but one that’s “earthy” and “fun”. “The innovative use of British ingredients to recreate Mexican flavours is what makes this a really interesting culinary experience” – providing “twists on the genre which tantalise the palate” and deliver “immensely thoughtful and innovative” dishes with “deep savoury notes”. “And the wine list is both unusual and worth taking a risk on too: some hidden gems from small producers and uncommon countries which complement the food well”. “You are helped in your journey by a knowledgeable and unpretentious sommelier” and service generally is “excellent”. “Always buzzy, tables are hard to come by”. Top Tips – “the lobster taco is a real highlight and the mole something very special indeed”, while there’s “one of the finest vegan tasting menus in London”.
Summary
“Eye-opening…”, “inspired…”, “every course genius…” – this long-awaited Mexican from Santiago Lastra finally debuted amidst the lockdowns of 2020, just off Portman Square (opposite Locanda Locatelli), and has been “hailed as one of the most exciting openings of recent times”, not least by Giles Coren of The Times for whom it is “world-class, genre-defying [and] entirely new”. “There aren’t many top-level Mexicans in London” and here “clever combinations use British ingredients for Mexican dishes” (“so you get seed guacamole instead of avocado, and sea buckthorn instead of limes – sounds contrived, but works brilliantly”). It helps that the “impeccable service sets the perfect context for the procession of fascinating dishes, all served up in a glamorous but unpretentious space” around a “vibrant open kitchen”; and there are “excellent sommelier recommendations” too, which are engagingly “left-field and fun”. But, while fans say it’s “good value for such quality and novelty”, its ratings are dragged down by those who feel it ultimately falls short: “hailed as one of the most exciting openings recently, I think this may have been oversold. The food, as innovative as it was, did not feel like it lived up to the hype and was pretty pricey for what it was”.
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Kol?
9 Seymour Street, London, W1H 7BA
Restaurant details
Kol Restaurant Diner Reviews
"A Mexican restaurant with British products is an absolute delight. Michelin starred and thoroughly deserved. The menu is a tasting one for £185 so not cheap but we thoroughly enjoyed the 13 courses we had. The food was inventive and full of flavour. The seasonal menu can be found online so you can look forward to the culinary delights that await you."
"Fantastic food and service. Nice casual ambience but chairs are a bit uncomfortable for such a long dinner. "
Prices
 Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £50.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £6.00 |
 Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 12.50% |
9 Seymour Street, London, W1H 7BA
Opening hours
| Monday | CLOSED |
| Tuesday | 5:45 pm‑1 am |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 5:45 pm‑1 am |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 5:45 pm‑1 am |
| Friday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 5:45 pm‑1 am |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 5:45 pm‑1 am |
| Sunday | CLOSED |
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