Claridge’s Restaurant, Claridge’s Hotel

Summary

Plus ça change! After 20 years of mucking about with megastar chefs, like Gordon Ramsay, Simon Rogan and Daniel Humm – this landmark Mayfair hotel’s glorious Art Deco dining room is finally going back to sailing under its ‘own brand’ flag: returning to an updated version of the format it abandoned two decades ago. Coalin Finn is to be at the stoves, and the food will be a bit fancier than when the space was something of an undiscovered traditional gem. Few five stars in the late ’90s were serving barbequed radish skewers braised in homemade teriyaki, laced with horseradish; but grilled native lobster with crushed Jersey royals and sauce Américaine… that sounds more like it.